One Last Shrine and One Big Buddha

Our final day of touring together as a group focused on Kamakura, a small city about ninety minutes to the south and east of Tokyo. We were joined there by lots and lots of other tourists, small groups of elementary school children on field trips and families bringing their three, five and seven year old children for a blessing at one of the numerous local shrines.

Japan's first independent military government was established here after the 1185 success of the Minamoto in battle against their arch rivals, the Taira. The Minamoto (also known as the Genji) then became Japan's first shogun, ruling the country in the name of the emperor, until disposed by another military-aristocratic family, the Ashikaga, in 1477.

During the era of their ascendancy, the Minamoto presided over a resurgence in Japanese interest in Buddhism and in "things Chinese" in general. We saw evidence of this influence in the images displayed in a Special Exhibition we visited at the Kamakura National Museum, featuring the Ten Judges of Hell, dressed in Chinese style, dispensing judgment on the human souls coming before them.

These visions of "heaven" and "hell" reflect a growth in forms of popular Buddhism imported directly from China during this period as it spread through the larger population for the first time. Zen also comes to Japan from China during this period, exerting a particular influence on the warrior class.

The era also saw an unprecedented intermixing between Shinto and Buddhism -- the two religious traditions became increasingly indistinguishable. The architecture at Hachimangu, a Shinto shrine we toured, showed results of this mingling in the curved Chinese-style entrance roof and the colorful embellishments decorating structures throughout the complex.

After a delicious tempura lunch at the Kamakura Park Hotel along the nearby Pacific coast, we joined the masses gazing up at the serene iconic outdoor statue of the Amida Buddha known as the Daibutsu, the Great Buddha, for many of us a fitting conclusion to our travels together.

Back in Tokyo that evening, a large group of us spent the evening exploring "the new Tokyo", going by subway to the Tokyo Midtown - Roppongi Hills area with a side trip to view the nearby, brand new, spectacular National Art Center.